Terry Ito Column Vol. 85: Nihonbashi Ningyocho is Absolutely Fun

In my last column, I introduced my favorite "Musashi-Koyama Shopping Street," but I have other favorite places to stroll. Right in the heart of downtown Tokyo is Nihonbashi Ningyocho. The name of this area originates from the Edo period, when kabuki theaters and puppet theaters gathered here, and there were many doll makers and shops selling dolls, and many puppeteers lived here. Isn't that a stylish name for a town? For some reason, when I come to this town, I feel the atmosphere of Edo rather than just downtown Tokyo. It's also fun to see the many stalls that line the streets in each season. There is no shortage of events, such as the year-end market leading up to the New Year, the pottery market in summer, the Kanda Festival in May, the doll market in autumn, and the mochi-making festival in winter. In the summer, you often see women in yukata.

At Matsutakean, a soba restaurant I visit once or twice a month without fail, I order the chicken and grated radish soba (1300 yen). It wouldn't be an exaggeration to say it's the best in Japan. It's so delicious that I'm addicted to it. Furthermore, their tamagoyaki (rolled omelet) (800 yen) is also exquisite, and I can say that with certainty as my family runs a tamagoyaki shop. At Sasaki Sake Shop in Amazake Yokocho, I buy the seasonal raw sake lees (500 yen). I take it home, dissolve it in hot water, and add sugar to taste. It's nice to be able to adjust the sweetness, as ready-made amazake is sweet. Actually, when I was in university, I worked part-time at Kanmi-dokoro Hatsune near Yasukuni Shrine in Kudan, and its sister store in Ningyocho is also very popular. Recommended items are Ogura Anmitsu (780 yen), Oshiruko (850 yen), and Ozoni (950 yen), but it's hard to choose. For Anmitsu, you can choose between black syrup and white syrup, which is a difficult decision. Across from Hatsune is a mysterious rental shop where the merchandise changes every week. The theme is consistently "closing down sale." It's suspicious no matter how you look at it, but that's what makes it so appealing. The target customer base is firmly focused on middle-aged women. Thick socks, underwear, gloves, flashy leopard print blouses, abnormally stretchy leggings, and so on—they're definitely up to the task. Sometimes you'll even find travel bags and pouches at 80% off. The prices are so low you can't help but buy something. It's just as fun as Don Quijote. At special events, they even sell prints by Banksy, who's been making waves worldwide. I felt a bit of a disconnect between the customer base and the artwork, but that's what makes it interesting.

Ningyocho is not just a shopping destination; it's also home to Suiten-gu Shrine, famous for prayers for safe childbirth. Every month on the Day of the Dog, pregnant women come to pray for a safe delivery, creating a vibrant atmosphere in the town. On your way back, you might want to stroll along the charming back streets of the old town all the way to the Sumida River. It would also be lovely to stand on Ryogoku Bridge, feeling the spring breeze on your cheeks, and watch the boats go by. In the coming season, you might even encounter sumo wrestlers in yukata after their practice. Why not visit Ningyocho, a relaxing town, a town where you don't have to spend too much money, and a town that evokes the spirit of Edo? You're sure to have a great time.

Terry Ito (director)

Born in Tsukiji, Tokyo in 1949. After attending Waseda Jitsugyo Junior and Senior High School, he graduated from Nihon University's School of Economics.
In March 2023, he completed the Master's program at the Graduate School of Media and Governance at Keio University.
He joined the television production company IVS Television, where he worked on variety shows such as "Tensai Takeshi's Genki ga Deru TV" and "Neruton Benikujidan."
He then went independent and worked on planning and directing a number of television programs, including TV Tokyo's "Asakusabashi Young Clothing Store."
His book "Comedy North Korea" became a bestseller, and he subsequently made numerous media appearances under the name Terry Ito.
In addition to his work as a director, he is also active in a variety of fields as a producer, entertainer, and commentator.
YouTube channelTerry Ito's Comedy Backdrop'
Currently writing a column in LALALA USA
https://lalalausa.com/archives/category/column/terry