Sansai Co., Ltd. President and CEO Jotaro Saito

The new kimono symbolizes the identity of the times

President and Kimono Designer of Sansai Co., Ltd.　斉藤上太郎　(Saitou Jotaro)

■ Profile
Born in Kyoto in 1969. Since making his debut as an artist at the age of 27, he has continued to explore kimono style as fashion that matches the values ​​and aesthetic sense of the times. He is the only kimono designer to continue holding collection shows in order to establish the "latest tradition." In 2020, his kimono was added to the collection of the V&A Museum in London. He opened the JOTARO SAITO flagship store at Ginza Six. Last year, he opened a store at Nagoya Matsuzakaya.

Misai Co., Ltd. is a kimono company that celebrated its 90th anniversary this year, continuing to propose unique styles without being bound by conventional wisdom. Jotaro Saito, the third-generation president, continues to carry on the will of his predecessors and promote kimono as a new fashion for the Reiwa era. We spoke to this innovative kimono designer about the passionate concept at the root of his creative style.

■I've been immersed in what I want to do since I was a student.

I was immersed in rugby, which I loved, until high school, but then I went on to study arts at university. The Saito family originally ran a dyeing business in Kyoto, but when I was younger I wasn't really thinking about taking over the kimono or dyeing business. After entering university, instead of studying the dyeing business, I studied visual design such as printing and photography. Having grown up in an environment with artisans at home, I was well aware of the harshness of the creative workplace, so I wasn't overwhelmed with hope for the future. However, I did have a vague desire to go in that direction. I also enjoyed drawing and designing, so looking back now, I think it was my interest that led me to choose a career in art.

■ The creative style created by the previous generation

Sansai Co., Ltd. is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. We have traditional skills and techniques based on Kyo-Yuzen, but we are known for being a bit of a contrarian, more creative and innovative than any other dyeing shop, more like an artist. During the time of the first Saisaburo, we were known as "the best in Kyoto when it comes to using rats," implying that we would create interesting, eccentric pieces.

In modern Japan, the image of the kimono has changed from something for everyday wear to something worn on special occasions like weddings. In this context, it was my father, Misai, the second generation owner, who first introduced kimono sets designed to enhance the posture and demeanor of Japanese people. Misai was conscious of proposing styles that craftsmen could not, such as matching the same color or pattern rather than separating the top and bottom with a thick obi, in order to make petite Japanese people look beautiful.

Honestly, you're more popular in a kimono than in Western clothes. This is because when you wear a kimono, every movement you make, such as holding onto your sleeve when picking something up or sweeping your hem when sitting down, brings out a wonderful sexiness. You can't really understand these things until you try it on, so I would like as many people as possible to wear a kimono and experience the feeling for themselves.

■Not a kimono that brings back memories of the Showa era, but a new kimono as a part of Reiwa fashion

I hold fashion shows twice a year because I want to promote kimonos not as objects, but as fashion that symbolizes identity. I always consider the "roots" and "identity" of the Japanese people, matching not only the kimono and obi, but also the accessories and models to the theme of the presentation.

I don't have any idea of ​​what kimonos should be like. In fashion shows, I promote new kimonos as Reiwa fashion, saying, "See, wearing a kimono is the newest thing, isn't it?" I am particular about promoting kimonos that are not nostalgic for the Showa era, but that traditional culture and crafts are what are new. However, newness is not always good. If you overdo it, it becomes like anime cosplay, and if you do nothing, there will be no evolution. It is difficult to focus on the degree of evolution, but I propose kimonos that are beautiful, stylish, and in line with the changing times.

For example, the kimono I'm wearing now (Editor's note: the kimono Saito was wearing at the time of the interview) is made from denim fabric. Because it's denim, it can be washed in the washing machine, and what looks like a nagajuban is actually a T-shirt. There are also kimonos made from maintenance-free materials such as denim and jersey, and although kimonos made from such informal materials may at first glance seem to be for beginners, we are particular about making them accessible to fashion enthusiasts. Silk is certainly the best material, but I think it's important to create new kimonos that are in line with the aesthetic sense and values ​​of the Reiwa era.

■ Do what you want to do rather than conform to others

In the first year that I started presenting the kimonos that I designed, I suppressed what I wanted to do and tried to impress others by worrying about what others thought. I thought that even if I made what I wanted to make, no one would understand it anyway. However, it wasn't well received, and the reviews were bad, so I couldn't accept the results.

With that background, I decided to do my second year's presentation the way I wanted to. I was determined to quit if it wasn't a success, so I allocated a budget and insisted on using original fabrics. My second year's presentation, which was packed with everything I wanted, received a lot of praise. That's when I realized, "It was me who didn't understand."

■Message to students

I want you to focus on what is in front of you. If you believe in what is in front of you rather than being calculating, and work hard without any negative thoughts, a path will surely open up. People who are dedicated to something look great, and surprisingly, the people around you are very observant. Overcoming various difficult hurdles will lead to confidence, and confidence will change your words and actions, bringing you closer to opportunities for success. I encourage you to try many different things.

Interviewed by Student Newspaper Online on May 15, 2024 by Ai Tatsuzawa, a third-year student at Showa Women's University

N High School, 2nd year student, Ishikawa Akira / Keigi University, 3rd year student, Tsuka Sari / Showa Women's University, 3rd year student, Tatsuzawa Ai / Hosei University, 4th year student, Shimada Daiki