Terry Ito Column Vol.48 Meeting Maiko and Geiko in Gion

I went to Kyoto for the first time in a long time to meet up with some friends from college. Old friends from all over Kyoto gathered for a New Year's reunion, and it was a very lively event. Normally, we would just get together for a meal, but afterward, we decided to head to a luxurious, long-established Japanese restaurant. It's a venerable restaurant that doesn't allow first-time customers, but thanks to a school friend who is a local celebrity and currently living in Kyoto, we were able to get in. The road to the restaurant and the Gion district were incredibly crowded with tourists. We finally made it through the crowds. However, once we stepped through the noren curtain, we were transported to another dimension. The prestigious establishment, over 100 years old, had a tranquil atmosphere that made us feel like we'd traveled back in time to the Edo period. We climbed the creaky stairs and were led to a tatami room on the second floor.

After a while, the sliding doors slid open, and the maiko and geiko quietly appeared, greeting each other with a "Welcome!", eliciting cheers from everyone. Not being able to drink alcohol or know how to have fun, I rudely bombarded them with questions. Without reading the mood of the room, I asked them questions like, "Why did you want to become a maiko?", "Where are you from?", "Isn't the training difficult?", "What are the hardships?", and "What are your dreams for the future?", all in rapid succession, like an entertainment reporter. They answered without a hint of annoyance in the gentle Gion dialect. The geiko is from Kochi, and the maiko is from Ibaraki. Both decided to pursue this path after watching the "Miyako Odori" dance in junior high school. Isn't this similar to watching the Koshien tournament and wanting to become a professional baseball player? Their motivations are easy to understand. Apparently, learning the Gion dialect was extremely difficult, especially for those raised in the Tohoku region, where the intonation can be difficult. What seems to be bothering her is that foreign tourists aggressively take photos of her on the way to various restaurants or while waiting at crosswalks. She worries about the yearly decline in the number of people who want to become maiko, and her face clouds over. Apparently there are only 11 maiko in Kyoto at present. A maiko can become a geiko after three to five years as a maiko, but first there is a one-year apprenticeship period before becoming a maiko, and it seems that many girls quit during this time. Her expression is serious as she says that she is looking forward to many new recruits joining the ranks this April.

After hearing their story, my interest was suddenly piqued. I wanted to support them. I'm not of a status that would allow me to go to a high-class restaurant, but it's a shame that there are so few people who want to become maiko. I want to help pass on Japanese culture. At the end of the banquet, the two of them performed a dance accompanied by the shamisen music of a senior geisha. It was incredibly beautiful. Watching in the formal room, I felt just like Oishi Kuranosuke, who was having fun in Gion before the raid. This profound pastime must be part of traditional Japanese culture.

Are there any people around you who are interested in maiko and geiko? Why not go see the Miyako Odori dance in Kyoto in April? It will change your life.

Terry Ito (director)

Born in Tsukiji, Tokyo in 1949. After attending Waseda Jitsugyo Junior and Senior High School, he graduated from Nihon University's School of Economics.
In March 2023, he completed the Master's program at the Graduate School of Media and Governance at Keio University.
He joined the television production company IVS Television, where he worked on variety shows such as "Tensai Takeshi's Genki ga Deru TV" and "Neruton Benikujidan."
He then went independent and worked on planning and directing a number of television programs, including TV Tokyo's "Asakusabashi Young Clothing Store."
His book "Comedy North Korea" became a bestseller, and he subsequently made numerous media appearances under the name Terry Ito.
In addition to his work as a director, he is also active in a variety of fields as a producer, entertainer, and commentator.
YouTube channelTerry Ito's Comedy Backdrop'
Currently writing a column in LALALA USA
https://lalalausa.com/archives/category/column/terry